Drifting Dane

The quest for a happy ending in Brazil

  • August 21, 2021
  • March 16, 2024

Part 6.  João Pessoa and Pipa

The green gem of Paraiba

At this point, I felt like I was hopping from state to state, as I hardly
found myself settled long enough to understand a bit of that distinction that locals have from one neighbouring region to another. 
Alagoas - Pernambuco - Paraiba - Rio Grande do Norte are closely bound but far enough apart to have their own regional culture.
I did want to understand better without blaming any language barrier, 
so a longer pause was needed. 

João Pessoa

I suddenly found myself in Paraiba state and supposedly in one of the greenest cities in the world, João Pessoa.
To my logic, how could a city be one of the greenest and remain almost unknown?
There is no industrial infection in an area where nature has the upper hand, with no gold - diamantes or oil to prospect. 
When you think about it, that is a perfectly valid reason, while making Paraiba an exceptional flourishing state. :) 

Rio Jaguaribe, João Pessoa

Little did I know that less than 10 per cent of foreigners visit here.
At first, I was a bit suspicious as to why, but I discovered that people simply do not know about it.
I had discovered an untouched corner of the world where I immediately felt well.

Joáo Pessoa is a midsize city with approximately 2.5 million in the upper Northeastern region of Brazil. 
the vague info caught my curiosity and as I learned and visited more it became a place I would remember and treasure.
It was the untrodden Rio of the North with limitless sandy beaches and untouched beauty.

Praia do Bessa João Pessoa

The city of João Pessoa was founded back in 1585 as Filipéia de Nossa Senhora das Neves. 
Its specific geographical location within Ponta do Seixas (easternmost point of the Americas) has earned it the name the Sun Gateway.
The population keeps growing and between 1980 to 2010 the population grew from 329.942 to 723.514 habitats, and today in 2020 it is more than 2.5 million.

I guess the secret is out about the second greenest city in the world. :) 

Centro histórico de João Pessoa


As I was running along the coastline one day, I came across the end strip of Bessa beach. 
On the same corner, I saw a broken-down house with a garden Pavillon facing the southeast.
Mesmerised, by the palm trees beach view this house had,
I stopped to investigate further as to why no one was living in this corner paradise.

Bessa beach house

Perfect view beach corner

It seemed perfect for a beach hostel or pousada - with an upper pillar construction and patio running all around the top floor. 
There was enough space for 5-6  hammocks swinging to the southeast and south-north, with the perfect beach sunset view while having private rooms and dorms aligned on the top and still plenty of privacy for the owners downstairs.

After looking around for a bit and trying to get an overview or contact to someone about the house, I returned to my hostel and shared my infatuation about this perfect spot I had seen to the French owner. 
He explained that he also had, had the same idea when he first came here back in the early 90s.
He had noticed the same house and wondered, while successfully made contact.

Beach corner

The story is that the house has been abandoned because of a long ongoing family feud and still remains unresolved.  

Midway Pipa pause

I spent some time in Pipa as a small in-between rest along my route up North in the state Rio Grande do Norte.
A place very popular with Brazilians that seek a lover volume and quick escape from their nearby city.
Another, ´late back hippie occupied corner` and surfers paradise with great beaches and a good time whenever the weekend hits. 

Pipa beach view from above

Pipa has the best location and is close enough for people in the surrounding bigger cities to go there even on short terms. 
It is no doubt an optimal location for creating constant tourism flow. 
A place with almost no change in temperature and between major cities in the North of Brazil invites an escape for big-city people
while providing much-needed revenue to the smaller communities. Something continuously needed in Brazil.


→  The quest for a happy ending in Brazil → Part 7
      Jericoacoara, a Northeasterly closure